When you live in the country’s largest county (suck it, Dublin), where you go on holidays as a child can determine your ramblings as you get to the age where you can drive yourself when you fancy taking off on a weekend skite.
For us, it was always west Cork — we spent our summers with our aunties in the caravan park in Owenahincha, and in a family’s old farmhouse when they built their more modern one in Red Strand, long before AirBnB was even invented.
I continued the tradition into adulthood, always veering west for a Sunday dogwalk, a girls’ weekend away, or a trip to the beach.
The deer at Doneraile Park, Co. Cork. Picture Denis Minihane.
So heading to north Cork for a weekend feels like I’m a cheating an old friend. But it also has the advantage of discovering a part of my beloved county that perhaps deserves a little bit more of my love and attention. I bring the family so I don’t get totally distracted.
We stop off for some refreshments and to stretch the legs in Doneraile Park and Gardens. The Townhouse Café here is a wonder. It’s like stepping into another era – it’s a cacophony of colour with plush velvets, ornate mirrors, gloriously intricate wallpaper, quirky antiques and oddities, with outstanding staff and the best cheesecake we’ve ever had (pro tip, the flavour changes daily so ask your waitress).
Proprietor and local legend Myra Ryall walks us down to the park, along the whispering Awbeg River, the gateway to a sprawling 166 hectares, give or take, which Myra tells us in one of the best examples of a ‘Capability Brown’ style landscaped park in the country.
Doneraile Court, Co. Cork. Picture Denis Minihane
Doneraile Court House dates back to the 1720s, says Myra, built by Arthur St Leger, the first Viscount of Doneraile, if you don’t mind. The house isn’t open when we visit but we spend a pleasant hour with a frisbee exploring the estate, pointing out deer grazing next to what we are told are a rare Kerry cattle breed.
There’s stunning specimen tree avenues, and still water ponds dating back to the 17th century, full of flickering fish as we pass. We vow to come back with a picnic next time and make a day of it.
That afternoon sees me getting stoned — in a most profound way. I wouldn’t be one for jibber-jabber, let me tell you, but touching a giant rock in the stone circle at Lios na Gráinsí (Fort of Grange) I get pins and needles all up my arms, the hair on the back of my neck stands up and I feel a burst of emotion that I can’t really explain, it takes my breath away.
Truth be told, I get a bit tearful – and I didn’t cry at the end of Bambi. There is an incredible energy to this mystical place, the largest standing stone circle on our island. Our guide, the magnificent Siobhan, tells us people come from all over the world, some leave little offerings – especially those who are working on fertility issues.
The stone circle at Lough Gur. Picture: Esther McCarthy
My husband and I take a side-eye at our three boys playing one of their favourite games, who-can-punch-the-hardest and take a discreet step away from each other.
This is the biggest standing stone circle in Ireland, there since the freaking Bronze Age, and I’d never even thought to make the short trip to visit. Standing in this incredible Neolithic majestic ancient site, I feel so blessed that we get to experience it. It’s a very special place, on a spiritual level, and me and Rannach Chruim Duibh (the largest stone that I spend far too long caressing) connected, mná to rock, I don’t care what anybody says. Do not miss a trip here if you’re in the area.
This time we are prepared with a picnic and after throwing our heads into the visitor centre, we hike along the hill to the east side of the lake until we reached Black Castle, and chill out in the ruins of a Norman castle, eating a picnic packed by the fabulous Margaret in Deebert House Hotel where we finish the day, worn out and happy out.
On her bike! Esther McCarthy cycling in the Ballyhoura Mountains
With three boys to tire, we up the ante for the final day of our stay, with an action-packed day. We saddle up and hit Ballyhoura Mountain trails; there’s a level that will suit everyone.
We get kitted out with the pros at Ballyhoura Trailriders and the boyos, seasoned cyclists and pro risk-takers, cycle off to dominate the more advanced trail while my guide, Jana Mannion, and I, keep to a more manageable trail. Saying that, it’s by no means for the faint-hearted and I definitely get air under my tyres at a few junctures. It’s a great way to explore the forestry and we spot cyclists of all ages as we make our way along the route.
We’ve done the land-based activities, but we can’t leave the Hidden Heartlands without visiting Ballyhass Lakes, Mallow. This outdoor adventure centre is incredible – the sun is shining when we spill out of the car, which helps, but we are blown away by this incredible facility – again so close to us, it feels shameful we haven’t made the journey up to now.
We get into our wetsuits – some of us more elegantly than others – and go SUPing (stand-up paddleboarding) along the stunning limestone quarry lake. The boys do headstands on theirs – show-offs, but all abilities can do this. Diving in is optional, but pushing innocent mothers in is compulsory, apparently.
Ballyhass Lakes.
It’s the perfect family activity, the boys can be as daredevilish as they like and I can serenely slide along at my own pace behind them – until they gang up on me.
The lake is safe and the instructor distracts the lads from tormenting me by getting them to competitions that keep us all entertained. We get back into our civvies and check out the ziplining, it’s a good 90 minutes and so much fun.
Some of the ziplines span 160m, we swoop over the azure waters, exhilarated and exhausted by the time we unclip and unwind. With not a screen to be seen for the whole weekend, it was a wonderful family weekend away.
Ballyhoura, my new bestie, we’ll be back.
Townhouse Doneraile
Enjoy breakfast, late lunch or coffee and cake all day in this lovely café with indoor and outdoor seating.
The Deebert House Hotel in Kilmallock is the perfect base to do all your exploring.
With large interconnecting family rooms, a fabulous family-friendly menu (with impressive price points) and great local knowledge. Family rooms from €120 per night.
