Islands of Ireland: Kenmare Bay — still called a river thanks to a lord who wanted to ensure fishing rights
Kenmare River has multiple islands scattered up and down its majestic coastline. A coastline on a river? Well yes, as this river is a bay but oddly it retains its name and definition on the Ordnance Survey maps from the time when Lord Lansdowne owned most of the land in the late 18th century and thus guaranteed fishing rights for himself on the ‘river’. It is a bit like referring to a mountain as a valley or a river as a lake.
Recently, we visited the Greenane Islands near Kenmare. Further out the peninsula beside the famous Parknasilla Estate is a cluster of wooded islands including another Garnish Island (one of four), and Illaunslea where the writer Peter Somerville Large spent some time. Further out again, at Whitestrand Beach is another cluster including the subject at hand, Daniel’s Island.
The Irish for Daniel’s Island is not, as you would assume, Oileán Dónal, but is Oileán Diarmada. That is hardly such a tongue-twister as to disallow it in favour of Daniel, but there you go. There is an alternative name on logainm.ie, Darby’s Island, of which there are several others, including one not too far away on Lough Currane. Perhaps Daniel’s Island was named for the Liberator, Daniel O’Connell, whose estate was just around the headland at Derrynane. Nearby Caherdaniel was named after a local ringfort, Cathair Dónall and actually has no connection to the great man.
While we have several islands named after someone’s surname (MacCarthy’s Island and Ronayne’s Island, County Kerry; Mulroney’s Island, County Galway), we have very few named for someone’s first name: Rodger’s Island at Castletownshend, County Cork and Jeremiah’s Island near Baltimore, spring to mind. However, there is always the possibility that the Daniel in the case of the island is in fact a surname.
Several mountains tower above the coastline here: Beenrour, Mullaghbeg; Eagle’s Hill, and Staigue to name a few. Impressive as they seem from far down below at sea level, they are less than half the height of our highest mountain, 20km northeast, Carrauntoohil.
Daniel’s Island is one of a quintet of small islands lying very close to the coast: the others are Illaunglas, Illaunnanoon, Illaunacummig, and Illaunakeesha. Daniel’s Island is the odd one out, as it is not named ‘illaun’ something. Its three acres of fern, heather, and gorse; and the second largest island of the group, behind Illaunacummig’s seven acres. Daniel’s standout feature is a deep cut on its southeastern side carved out by a persistent sea. The island is only 11metres high but when seen by itself from the vantage point of a kayak that does seem sizeable. Perspective is all.
Daniel’s Island was the subject of a bizarre proposal in the 1960s for the purchase of the island and construction of a holiday home by the trades unions for “the children of hospitalised, deceased, and people of lower income”. Though obviously well-intentioned, hundreds of more hospitable locations for such a venture suggest themselves. And considering there is no pier on the island and no fresh water, this would have been a venture doomed to failure.
The presence of numerous lichens is indicative of very clean air and Daniel’s Island has some gorgeous examples which decorate its rocks more impressively than any artist’s palette could manage: the pale green Ramalina cuspidata with its sinuous, wavy arms; the bright white splotches of Arthonia varians; the ubiquitous Xanthoria parietina, which is otherwise known as maritime sunburst lichen.
You will not be going for a sunny amble on Daniel’s Island due to its rocky nature and miniature proportions, but it is a lovely spot for a picnic if you happen to be passing by on a boat. With its mini-meadows of sea thrift and staggering views across the bay to the Beara Peninsula, whose mountains flank the coastline like some giant exo-skeleton, there are a lot worse places to while away a few hours.
: Inquire at Oysterbed Pier or kayak from Whitestrand Beach at Castlecove. The quintet of islands is just off the beach to the east.
: logainm.ie; Evening Echo 13/10/1967
