IRELAND

The insider’s guide to East Cork: 50 things to experience — plus unmissable seaside hotspots


As an East Cork native, I can be the first to testify that my home turf has seen itself chameleon into a tourism hub in recent years. 

Growing up, the very name East Cork was largely only bandied around as an electoral constituency while the tourism highlights of the area oscillated between a trip to Trabolgan or Perky Bears in Youghal. That’s all changed.

Today, the region has become one of Munster’s tourism powerhouses which (cue a controversial assertion) can even punch alongside West Cork in many areas. 

Local pillars and pioneers, such as Ballymaloe House, have inspired the food movement in a region now synonymous with it, while in more recent years resorts at Fota and Castlemartyr have brought a luxury cachet to the area.

Add in glorious beaches, beautiful villages such as Ballycotton, kaleidoscopic dazzlers like Cobh and arguably the biggest concentration of food trucks this side of Brooklyn and you’ve a delicious destination for a day-trip or longer staycation.

Here’s my guide of the best spots to eat, stay and play while you’re here.

Jameson Distillery, Midleton, Co Cork

Highlights

Phase one of East Cork’s newest amenity, the Midleton to Youghal Greenway, is now open from Midleton to the village of Mogeely. BYO bike or rent one in Midleton. For a pitstop, check out Coleman’s Butcher’s food truck in Mogeely.

Take a trip to one of the most scenic spots of the East Cork coastline with Ballycotton Island Lighthouse Tours. Expert local guides make this offshore adventure a gem of a trip. €27/€16; ballycottonsea-adventures.com

Staying with island hopping, Spike Island Tours, which depart from Cobh, is the top-rated attraction in the county. Expect a legend-loaded encounter at the fort and former prison and lots of natural beauty too – pack a picnic! €27/€14; spikeislandcork.ie

The home of Jameson whiskey, the Midleton Distillery Experience
offers a state-of-the-art tour and tastings in a stunning yesteryear setting. You can simply pop in for a great signature cocktail too. €26/€12; jamesonwhiskey.com

One of the most iconic walks in the county, the Ballycotton Cliff Walk is a stunning 10km loop which winds along the rugged coastline through East Cork’s most scenic turf. Keep an eye out for basking sharks.

Taking in Front Strand, Claycastle and Red Barn beaches, Youghal Eco Boardwalk is a stunning 2km (and wheelchair accessible) route along one of the county’s most historic holiday spots. Boardwalk Coffee operate a truck at Claycastle.

Anchor down for a museum crawl of historic Cobh. The Queenstown Story at Cobh Heritage Centre offers an immersive journey through Ireland’s emigration history much centred around the story of the Titanic. €15/€8; cobhheritage.com

Every Saturday, Midleton Farmers’ Market almost acts as a weekly food festival in the bustling East Cork town. You can expect live music and a cornucopia of delicious stalls from Volcano wood-fired pizzas to Harvey’s Coffee & Prosecco.

For a taste of Bridgerton on a fine summer’s day, Fota House, with its beautiful arboretum and gardens, is a wonderful spot to enjoy a picnic while tours of the Regency-era mansion cost €8. There’s a nice café here too. fotahouse.com

With sublime food and stellar hospitality in a postcard hinterland, Ballymaloe House is perhaps East Cork’s most quintessential landmark. Enjoy an overnight stay if budget allows or simply treat yourself to a coffee and pastry at Ballymaloe Café behind the shop. ballymaloe.ie

Kindred Spirits Choctaw Monument in Midleton
Kindred Spirits Choctaw Monument in Midleton

Hidden gems

There are a number of beach saunas dappled across East Cork, from the Coastal Cabin at Garryvoe (@thecoastalcabin) to My Hotspot in Youghal ( myhotspot.ie). Typically priced at €10 per half hour, consider these revitalising sessions as the best value wellness treatments going.

For a lesser known ramble, Knockadoon cliff walk, wrapped around one of East Cork’s most remote locations, is worth the mileage. If you’re lucky, you’ll catch the Lobster Pot food truck at the pier.

A memorial to the Native American tribe who donated to Irish famine relief in 1847, Kindred Spirits Choctaw Monument in Midleton is a stainless steel sculpture of eagle feathers which has become one of the region’s most unlikely Instagram spots.

Pitstop at Elle’s Coffee Dock at Bailick Road car park.

A relatively new but already very rooted fixture in East Cork, Greywood Arts (@greywoodarts) in Killeagh village is an artists’ residency and creative community hub which has an eclectic calendar of public events. Check out their art camps for kids.

To experience wildlife in its native habitat, head to Harper’s Islands Wetlands, a nature sanctuary in Glounthaune, where you walk a trail and spot native and migrating birds from two hides. Cuskinny Marsh in Cobh is an excellent birding spot too.

For a family-friendly stop-off for animal lovers (or, indeed, a great food stop for anyone), Rostellan Farm ( rostellanfarm.ie) is a dairy farm centred around a gorgeous farm shop in a former cow shed which serves delicious toasties, quiches and treats.

Architecture and history lovers should head to the Collegiate Church of Saint Mary, which is set within the medieval walls of Youghal and lays claim to be the oldest church in Ireland. Grab a coffee at The Priory to keep you company. @livingyoughal

For a dog-friendly outing, there are excellent woodland walks in East Cork, from Ballyannon in Midleton to Rostellan, Castlemartyr and Glenbower Woods

in Killeagh. Red squirrels, buzzards, jays and egrets are just some of the fauna to spot.

The Art & Soul Exhibition (@gormleysgallery) runs until June 23 at Castlemartyr Resort and features works from the likes of Andy Warhol, Salvador Dali and Damien Hirst. Pair your visit with a drink at the hotel’s Knight’s Bar or Golf Club.

To get active, Eco Adventures (eco_adventures), based out of Lower Amhara Pier, offers a number of activities for adults and children, from kayaking to ecology lessons. Or, if you’re feeling a little more active, how about some water trampolining or kayrobics?

Terre chef Vincent Crepel
Terre chef Vincent Crepel

Great dining spots 

Where fine dining transcends to the finest dining, two Michelin star Terre (@terre_restaurant_) at Castlemartyr Resort, by Chef Vincent Crepel, is one of the nation’s peak culinary experiences.

New lunch seatings offer a more affordable alternative to evening dining. Close by tucked away in the garden centre of the same name between Castlemartyr and Ladysbridge, Carewswood Café ( carewswood.ie) is a firm local favourite for its tasty lunch and brunch options like Eggs Royale with Ballycotton Smoked Salmon. It’s dog-friendly too. 

For some post-beach casual bites, Five Roads (@fiveroads) in Ladysbridge is a neat gourmet takeaway with excellent menu options from halloumi burgers to loaded fries. They serve great coffee too.

If visiting Cobh, a trip to Sea Salt deli and café is top tip. They offer delicious brunch and lunch options from breakfast burritos to their house favourite; brisket on toasted Panna bread with cheddar, kraut and horseradish mayo. Absolutely delish! 

Big Blue Pizza (big_blue_pizza) in Ballycotton is a colourful new addition to the local food scene with delicious home made pizzas, ice cream plus a fine sea view garden which features musical sessions.

Make ressies for seasoned Bib Gourmand star Cush (@cushballycotton) where you can enjoy two course early bird menus from €29.50. Elsewhere in the village, Sea Church offers excellent casual dining in a stunning setting… they do a gluten free fish and chips. Book ahead! 

With its cosy atmosphere, some of the finest seafood in Cork along with an excellent wine list, Ireland’s Blue Book member Aherne’s of Youghal (@ahernes_youghal) offers one of the best lunch settings in the region. The specials menu here is always a treat. 

East Cork is loaded with excellent food trucks but The Captain’s Catch (@the.captainscatch) which cooks with fish from their own boats is top drawer. Check their Instagram for their openings.

Midleton is stacked with great options but Ferrit & Lee on Distillery Lane is a firm local favourite. Expect the best of East Cork produce on a plate in a relaxed, friendly setting. Great cocktails too.

For a family-friendly option in Midleton, Roastie is gourmet rotisserie and burger joint with generous portions and tasty sides. The La Trattoria is also a tasty, good value bet.

Monty's Cafe, Midleton
Monty’s Cafe, Midleton

Cool coffee spots and delicious dining 

If you’re looking for excellent food on the fly, The Village Greengrocer (@thevillagegreengrocer) in Castlemartyr, is a family-owned institution known for its fresh baking and a rainbow of deli salads. You can dine-in upstairs too.

The Garden Café airstream truck (@gardencafetruck) at Ballymaloe Cookery School (a separate location to Ballymaloe House) has just reopened for the summer season. Strawberry popsicles, anyone?! 

Monty’s (@montyscafe) in Midleton is a friendly courtyard café which offers excellent coffee, sambos and salad bowls as well as scrumptious sweets like their red velvet cake. 

Like The Grumpy Bakers they’re dog-friendly, with lines of locals at the weekend frequenting one of the most popular coffee haunts in Midleton. Expect fresh-out-the-oven sourdough, pastries and tasty gluten-free treats (@the_grumpy_bakers).

Corkbeg Coffee by Grainne Gormley (@corkbegcoffee) set on the pier in Whitegate is a gorgeous waterside location to stop for a brew on your East Cork road-trip. Keep an eye out for musical and food events.

Located in a field off Ballybrannigan Beach, Niamh’s Larder (@niamhs_larder) is a new coffee truck found where you can get refreshed with everything from coffee to kefir!

Take a walk along the Greenway.
Take a walk along the Greenway.

Seaside hotspots you won’t want to miss

Garryvoe may draw the crowds around the bay but Ardnahinch, near Shanagarry, is a quieter spot a short drive west. It features a lovely wetlands walk too.

Set in a cove down a winding path of steps, White Bay Beach, near Trabolgan, is a scenic swim and surf spot. Take in a spin to nearby Roche’s Point Lighthouse at sunset. 

Knockadoon pier is a popular plunge spot in the summer for locals and students from the nearby Irish college. Ring Strand nearby is a sheltered beach… it’s very shallow at low tide, so is popular with families.

The Field Kitchen at The Blackbird
The Field Kitchen at The Blackbird

East Cork’s great pubs

The Blackbird, Ballycotton: Scenic, candlelit spot which regularly features live music. Its Field Kitchen is a super option for food. @blackbirdballycotton

Poc Ar Buile, Ballinrostig: No stranger to a great trad sesh, this off-the-beaten-track pub features a great beer garden and also regularly hosts great food trucks. @puc_ar_buile

The Nook, Youghal: Tucked in a cosy corner in the heart of Youghal, the pub is a great spot for pints and toasties. Book ahead for lunch! @thenookyoughal

 Elegant houses overlooking Cobh Harbour, The Crescent, Cobh, Co. Cork.
Elegant houses overlooking Cobh Harbour, The Crescent, Cobh, Co. Cork.

Places to stay

New to the offering this season, Ballymaloe Cottage (no relation to the house) is a wonderfully designed self-catering guesthouse where you can enjoy the benefits of homely, sleekly designed common areas. From €100; ballymaloecottage.com

Nestled in the heart of of historic Youghal, Roseville House is a beautiful Georgian hideaway which offers two self-contained suite accommodations with guests enjoying breakfast delivered to the door come morning. Excellent value here from €140; rosevilleyoughal.com.

East Cork’s flagship five star hotel, Castlemartyr Resort offers hotel and self-catering options in a stunning estate setting. Their Hunted Hog pub in the village does great food too. From €309; castlemartyrresort.com

Bella Vista by name and nature, this three star hotel and self-catering suites set in a lofty location in Cobh offers phenomenal views to the cathedral and harbour. From €180; bellavistahotel.ie

For a decent value base in East Cork, Midleton Park Hotel offers various deals taking in the nearby attractions. Park 89 Bar & Bistro is a fine family-friendly option for food too. From €152; midletonpark.com.

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